I’ve been “absent” from this page for a bit…been harvesting lettuce and peas, tying up tomato vines, and planting ornamentals. Right now for most gardeners, this is probably a typical list of “to does” in the garden. Another important task is to be on the alert for pests and diseases around your yard. I’m posting a short informative video about bagworms, a common pest around here. Follow the link; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-RQa9dPC68
It’s also time to tend the fast-growing tomato plants. Here’s a helpful article on fertilizing those plants. Thanks to Ward Upham at K-State Extension for providing this piece.
“Do Not Over-Fertilize Tomatoes.”
“Though tomatoes need to be fertilized to yield well, too much nitrogen can result in large plants with little to no fruit. Tomatoes should be fertilized before planting and sidedressed with a nitrogen fertilizer three times during the season.
The first sidedressing should go down one to two weeks before the first tomato ripens. The second should be applied two weeks after the first tomato ripens and the third one month after the second. Common sources of nitrogen-only fertilizers include nitrate of soda, urea, and ammonium sulfate. Blood meal is an organic fertilizer that contains primarily, but not exclusively, nitrogen. Use only one of the listed fertilizers and apply at the rate given below.
- Nitrate of soda (16-0-0): Apply 2/3 pound (1.5 cups) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.
- Blood Meal (12-1.5-.6): Apply 14 ounces (1.75 cups) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.
- Urea (46-0-0): Apply 4 ounces (½ cup) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.
- Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0): Apply 0.5 pounds (1 cup) fertilizer per 30 feet of row.
If you cannot find the above materials, you can use a lawn fertilizer that is about 30 percent nitrogen (nitrogen is the first number in the set of three) and apply it at the rate of 1/3 pound (3/4 cup) per 30 feet of row. Do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer or weed preventer.”